Putting the PEP in your skincare: What you need to know about peptides

You might have seen them in skincare aisles or serum commercials, but what are peptides and how do they help your skin? We asked Dr. Oyetwa Asempa, dermatologist and director of the Skin of Color Clinic at Baylor Medicine, if you should add peptides to your routine.

Question: What exactly are peptides?

Answer: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that form proteins in our skin, like collagen and elastin. They also act as signaling molecules, triggering wound healing and cellular repair.

Q: How do they benefit your skin?

A: They stimulate collagen and elastin production, reduce inflammation, act as antioxidants, support the skin barrier and help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Q: Are there different kinds of peptides for different benefits?

A: Typically, we break peptides down into the following four categories:

• Signal peptides stimulate the production of proteins.
• Carrier peptides deliver minerals to support processes in the skin.
• Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides reduce muscle contraction (muscles moving under the skin), which can soften fine lines and wrinkles.
• Enzyme inhibitor peptides block enzymes that promote hyperpigmentation (dark skin spots caused by excess pigment) and skin aging (the breakdown of collagen or elastin).

Q: How do they work with other active ingredients (like retinol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, etc.)?

A: These ingredients work well together and are often combined. When multiple ingredients are used in a stable formulation, they may have a synergistic effect, making the product work even better.

Q: Is it better to use them in the morning or at night? Could you use it for both?

A: Peptides can be used day or night. Many products are designed for twice-daily use.

Q: What should you look for if you want to try a product with peptides?

A: Choose products from reputable brands. If you have sensitive skin, select fragrance-free, gentle options. Formulations with “liposomes” or other nano-systems help peptides penetrate your skin’s top layer.

Q: Are there any side effects people should look out for when using peptides?

A: These are usually well-tolerated with minimal side effects. For sensitive skin, patch test before wider application to avoid allergic reactions.

Q: Is there any product they should stay away from if they’re using peptides?

A: There are no specific products that should be avoided when using peptides.

By Anna Kiappes