Momentum

Semi-permanent makeup: brow tattoo

A face seen from forehead to the tip of the nose. The subject's piercing brown eyes look directly forward.

After 20 years in esthetics, the popularity of brow grooming has grown exponentially. Brow styles and preferences changed, starting with thin and straight, then heavily arched, and now more full, bushier brows are all the rage.

There’s no question that brows truly shape the face and enhance facial features. Not only are more people wanting fuller brows, but also more shapely brows. One way to achieve this is by tinting or using henna to color the hair, which lasts about two to three weeks, sometimes longer. However, those who’ve experienced brow hair loss may want a more permanent solution. Some people have turned to a more lasting effect by choosing semi-permanent tattooing methods.

Different types of tattoos

Microblading is using a handheld tool to create hairline strokes by essentially slicing with a “microblade” into the skin to implant pigment. This can be a very painful procedure for some, with longer downtime and heavy scabbing over several days. Though this option is a more aggressive procedure, it can yield natural results.

Powder brows, or “ombre brows,” use a machine with a microneedle to implant the pigment. The procedure is virtually painless, and downtime is less than microblading, with little to no scabbing involved. Because powder brows use a machine, it is easier to control the implanting of pigment for the targeted area. This procedure is less invasive and lasts longer by creating highly pixelated dots, which yields a soft and more defined look.

Concerns

Over the years of microblading, it has become clear that some develop scar tissue surrounding areas of treatment because of its more invasive nature. This causes the skin to be less prone to keep pigment for a longer period. Skin type and texture are important factors when deciding the microblade method. Oily skin will not typically retain pigment well. The pigment will usually heal with dispersion rather than the crisp lines that most people prefer.

Color correction is possible with the right technician. Brown pigments are hues of red and, therefore, can sometimes heal ashy, bluish or stain the skin red. With the right combination of corrective color, a warmer, more natural tone can be achieved.

Brow tattoo is not permanent but semi-permanent. It may last anywhere from eight months to four years and will need touch-ups in between. However, some procedures may have implanted the pigment too deep, causing scars or leaving it in a non-desirable shape. In these cases, tattoo removal is an option. Laser tattoo removal can break up the pigment to initiate and stimulate exfoliation within the skin to push the removal of color out of the skin completely.

How to choose what’s right for you

Skin maturity, loss of hair and oiliness are factors that influence which tattoo method is best. Mature skin tends to retain color better, and oily skin tends to disperse pigment more. It’s best to sit with a reputable brow artist first to go over your concerns, goals and vision, then choose the right one for you.

Learn more about the Skin Studio at Baylor Medicine.

By Kim Chang, aesthetician at Baylor College of Medicine

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